Textiles of Orissa - The distinctive
hand-woven textiles of Orissa in unusual patterns and vibrant colours
have supported a thriving cottage industry employing thousands. Orissa
is famous for its silk ikat weaves created by an intricate
process called the "bandha" in which warp and weft threads are
tie-dyed to produce the pattern on the loom while weaving. Typical
design motifs include rows of birds and animals, fish, seashells,
rudraksh beads and temple spires.
Sambalpur, Berhampur, Mayurbhanj and Nuapatna produce a striking range
in tassar silk with a brilliance, glaze and texture that is unmatched.
The rare silk fabric produced at Nuapatna in Cuttack district
embellished with verses from the Gitagovinda is used to dress the idols
at the Jagannath Temple. The masters are well versed with the centuries
old art of silk worm cultivation and create silk ties, stoles,
furnishings and dress materials apart from saris.
The Berhampuri Pata are heavy silk sarees with narrow borders,
generally woven without any intricate motifs.
The Saktapar sari, from the weaving looms of Sambalpur, Bargarh
and Sonepur are identifiable by the double ikat checkerboard pattern
(passapalli) and brocade border. The weaving arts of Sambalpur-Sonepur
and Nuapatna have greatly influenced each other.
The Bomkai cotton saris from Ganjam district, named after a
tribal village, have been influenced by tribal art, and are embroidered
with temple spire patterns on the border.
The other typical varieties of Orissa saris, in silk and cotton,
include the glossy Khanduas having elaborate designs, the rich
red jotai ikat with rows of stylized trees and temple spires on
the borders, the unbleached cotton kotpad from Koraput offset by
a vibrant red dyed border, the Taraballi and the Bichitrapuri.
The tribal people of the State also excel in producing textiles of
myriad hues using vegetable dyes.
Most of the handloom textiles of Orissa are woven in bright and strong
colors. Vegetable dyed textiles have given way to chemical dyes, and the
former command a premium wherever available.
Orissa's traditional appliqué art is used to make handicrafts
and furnishings. Predominantly used colours are red, white, black, green
and yellow. Pipli, Butapalli, Khallikote, Tushra and Chikiti are centers
known for this colourful craft, creating umbrellas, canopies, fans and
lampshades. Applique art has been inspired by religion, and continue to
offer shade to Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra.
